Picton & Marfells Beach – 08/04/21 To 11/04/21
/ Marlborough, South Island / By George
It had been many years since I had crossed Cook Strait, although the memories of some of those trips when I was a child growing up in Wellington still lingered. My father worked for NZ Railways in the Woburn Workshops and once the inter-islander ferries started up (Aramoana and the Aranui originally as I remember) he was entitled to one free family trip per year. Invariably we took this during the Christmas holidays, the only time Dad had off work in those days. Excuse my trip down memory lane.
Travelling over Cook Strait on 8 April also brought the memories of that tragic day back in 1968 when the Wahine foundered after striking Barretts Reef. It was the 10th of April, but it reminded me just how adverse the weather could be at that time of year – although Cook Strait has a fierce reputation all year round. But we were blessed. The skies were clear and there was even some significant warmth about the sun. This was very useful as were unable to completely get our washing dry at our family’s house in Wellington. Whilst waiting on the wharf to board the ferry, Debbie hung all the washing around the motorhome. We were more fortunate as our position on the ferry was right at the back out in the sun, so by the time we reached Picton the clothes were dry!
Apart from a reasonable swell exiting the Tory channel out into the strait the trip was largely flawless. It was fine overhead and not even that cold, so after a Bluebridge lunch of chips and fruit compote we headed up on deck for most of the crossing. Initially a T-shirt was adequate dress, but with a bit of boat speed and a slight North West wind a moderate chill factor developed. Queen Charlotte Sound was as beautiful and still as I remembered, a calm refuge often even on windy days. We chatted with fellow travellers, one of whom pointed out the logging freighter heading out of Shakespeare Bay, fully laden with export logs. I wasn’t aware there was such a significant logging operation operating here, which only shows how much travelling does for your holistic awareness of this country. Sure I sound like someone who thinks there is nothing south of the Bombay Hills. I admit my travel in the South Island was limited to largely work related visits prior to this trip, but thankfully this time around we would be more relaxed, open eyed and soak up the geographical, historical and cultural aspects of it all.
It was around 5.00 pm when we berthed in Picton and the sun was fading, but we finally rolled off the ferry onto South Island turf. We had originally intended taking on this adventure commencing in early February, the two month delay meaning we were likely heading for a very cold autumn and/or winter. For the next couple of days we were staying with friends here in Picton, so it was a very relaxed time starting with a nice home cooked dinner and a nice shower the following morning. Level parking space was at a premium at their house though, so we ended up either on the neighbour’s property or the paper road – I’m not sure which. The neighbour was overseas anyway and as for the paper road, it looked like a watercourse and certainly was not a road by any description.
The following day our hosts kindly loaned us their car to explore Queen Charlotte Drive, as they thought it may be too narrow for our motorhome. It wasn’t but nonetheless it saved us having to move the motorhome from the space we had maneuvered ourselves into. The weather had deteriorated and it was colder with low cloud and showers. However this offered some photogenic opportunities of its own along this very scenic route, punctuated by numerous small bays.
We discovered the Momorangi camp ground and made a mental note that we must stay here when we return to this area. Very scenic and super popular in the warmer months we understand, but today it was partly occupied by the Marlborough Caravan Club on a regular jaunt. Good facilities and excellent powered motorhome spots right on the water’s edge, although there’s probably a scramble for these at the busy times.
We headed on to Anakiwa the home of the famous Outward Bound. We had a cursory look around and talked to the local Weka family, but the rain set in again and we retreated back to the motorhome. My observation even on this inclement day is that Anakiwa is a picturesque location in which to challenge your mind and body whilst undertaking some demanding outdoor pursuits. I’ve never done the course, but have been told over the years by some who have of the physical and mental rigours demanded here and how much value their achievements contributed to their lives. Our walk about was sufficient activity for us today and there were no others out braving this weather, apart from a couple of young mountain bikers about to attack a trail. The Outward Bound complex itself was deserted.
On the drive back to Picton we stopped briefly to capture some of the bays in the photos above and spent a few minutes at the carpark overlooking the Port at Shakespeare Bay. This is where the freighters are loaded with the raw timber from the local logging operations, much of which is exported. Forestry has been a very important industry in Marlborough since the very first European settlements. It is much more controlled these days using plantation forests, with the free-for-all clear-felling of natives of the past having long since ceased. This deep water port and log storage facility exists now on the site of the old freezing works. Despite the weather it was a well worthwhile drive with much to see and has definitely been earmarked for a return visit when we have more time. There would be still much to explore in and around Picton and the Sounds, with a number of camp sites recommended to us for the return visit.
On the Saturday10/04 there was a family lunch in honour of our visit. The weather had not improved much, but nonetheless following the luncheon we said our goodbyes and headed for the DOC camp at Marfells Beach on the east coast. The turn-off to Marfells Beach is 36 km south of Blenheim via State Highway 1. The beach was a further 8 km down Marfells Road, which took us past Lake Grassmere where the salt stockpiles were visible in the distance. Parking for us was on the firm grass beside the road overlooking the beach, although there is a parking area at higher level which we attempted, but it was not very level, there was limited parking (most of which was occupied when we arrived) and the view wasn’t that great. The sun shone on us the following morning, so we were able to take in the view of the sand-shingle beach and the Pacific Ocean beyond. You can walk to Cape Campbell (lighthouse), which is the southernmost point of Cook Strait, but only at low tide, as above the high tide line is private land. We didn’t attempt that walk but rather did a short reconnaissance stroll along the road, the beach in the near vicinity and checked out the adequate ablutions block, which contains flush toilets and cold water showers.
We stayed one night here only as we needed to move along to Kaikoura, where we had made a booking on a whale watching cruise. By all accounts Marfells Beach is a popular summer camping location and in our opinion is great value for an ocean view location.